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La Almunia Del Valle- Living the Andalusian Dream

La Almunia Del Valle- Living the Andalusian Dream

Anjali Venugopal June 13, 2018 NO COMMENTS

Picture this.

You wake up right before the sun; while the skies still sport the last stages of blue before the dawn breaks. You get yourself out of that warm, cozy bed to step out of your room. And the first thing to greet you in the morning is the majestic and absolutely breathtaking Sierra Nevada with the rising sun gently lending to the sky every shade of pink and orange imaginable. You feel the cool breeze on your face and there’s not a sound but for the smooth ruffle of the trees all around or maybe the birds in the distance singing to celebrate the arrival of yet another glorious day in beautiful Andalusia. This is just the beginning of what La Almunia del Valle has to offer.

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It is not the best kept secret that both the husband and I are real suckers for luxury. Couple the luxury with reasonable prices, minimum tourists, serenity, nature and wine, you’d have found two very content souls. It is with this objective that we realized that boutique hotels in quaint, unheard of locations are where our hearts are the happiest and it is with this reason that we try to stay the farthest away from the cities, the noise, the glitz and the glamour every time we can. The experiences at the Marriotts, the Hyatts and the like have always felt like the run of the mill when placed in comparison with the experiences we have taken back from quaint, family run boutique hotels in many parts of the world; experiences that we relive and rewind in our heads over and over again and which make for great conversation while we lay in bed every night, right before we drift off to sleep. La Almunia del Valle is no exception and let me tell you why.

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La Almunia Del Valle is nuzzled somewhere on the hillside in the dreamy village of Monachil. The village is straight out of a picture book. Green, sprawling mountains all around; low branches of trees hanging lovingly over the little stream gushing impatiently by; narrow, winding roads lined by primroses and yellow wildflowers aplenty; olive trees exuding their beautiful scent; cute cottages right out of a fairy tale with sloping roofs, traditional chimneys with silvery wisps of smoke wafting out and well-kept gardens where chickens pecked around; the crisp and cool summer breeze; the glorious Sierra Nevada all around for as far as the eye can reach.

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Location and property:

The hotel is the definition of charming with a side of homey and picturesque. Situated in a breathtakingly beautiful spot on the hillside, overlooking the Sierra Nevada mountain range, La Almunia Del Valle is everything your mind, body and soul needs.

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The hotel has a pretty spacious property, every corner of which speaks volumes about how well it is cared for. The trees, the lawns, the gardens with all the flowers, everything. The pool overlooking the mountains with pool chairs lined all around deserves a special mention. Especially for all those days you want to take a dip and relax by the pool, reading a book and sipping on cold beer after. And each time you look up from your book, you have the mountains steadily gazing back at you. Heaven.

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Their terrace overlooking the mountains was indeed my favourite spot and with good reason. You can sit for hours at a stretch there, sipping on a glass of incredible Spanish wine and watch as the sun bids goodbye to the day. You can sit in absolute silence punctuated occasionally by the sound of church bells that comes drifting by with the evening breeze, or the murmur of a pick-up truck engine somewhere on the other side of the mountains that will reach you long after it’s gone on its way.

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Interiors and decor:

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The rooms are extremely comfortable and minimally and tastefully decked up. Be it the large, comfy bed or the soft pillows, the books (both English and Spanish!) stacked by the bed side, the warm lamps, candles, it was evident how much thought had gone into each of the aspects.

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Something else about this hotel that caught my fancy was that there is no dedicated restaurant. It is just a large common space/room with wooden floors and furnished with comfortable arm chairs, sofas, a beautiful fireplace, book shelves stacked with books of all kinds, and few tables and chairs for when it’s meal time; adding even more to the “feel at home” vibe.

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Food and drink

The breakfast in the hotel is complimentary with the room. Get yourselves some warm bread, homemade cakes, chorizos, eggs, bacon or sausages and grab a glass of that divine orange juice and settle into the comfy nook on the terrace. The breakfast is simple, homemade and tasty; not with a million options but everything made with love and care.

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Dinner is available only on request. The menu is preset and they prepare the meal only for the exact number of people who place a booking. The dinner is available only for house guests and is prepared with ingredients freshly and locally sourced from the village market. We had the in house dinner one evening and it was as tasty as what you would expect out of a home kitchen.

Now for the drinks. The in-house bar keeps a list of carefully handpicked Spanish wines and Cava among other liqueurs. Needless to say we went to town with some glorious Spanish white wine while chatting away about old times and new, while comfortably seated facing the mighty mountains, and even a bottle of Cava which was on the house.

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It has been more than a month since we visited this absolutely stunning hotel and I still feel like I am living in the hangover from the mesmerizing experience it was. I still feels like I have left a part of my soul somewhere in the countryside there- with the wildflowers and the olive trees; in the wilderness; in the mountains. This is the place to unwind, to get a grip of your own being, to calm your soul, to be one with nature and to make memories.

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PS: They have the cutest dog, Fermin and the priciest cat, Clyde in the history of time. Those two were the highlights of our visit and we miss those snuggles even today.

Montelparo: A slice of Italy’s best kept secret

Montelparo: A slice of Italy’s best kept secret

Anjali Venugopal August 21, 2017 2 COMMENTS

Being two souls who have never taken to the glitter and the glamour of city life (honestly quite repulsed by it) or the crowd and noise that comes along with it, the Husband and I are eternally in pursuit of places where we can be in sync with nature, far, far away from the madding crowd; where we can sip on some wine, under the blue skies or just as much as while away time under the trees while the sun shines, listening to the sparrows chirping away. If not for these spots that let us be one with nature, it has to be the timeworn, quiet townships with majestic buildings, their grey walls that have stories to tell from the innumerable winters they have witnessed and withstood; with the narrow, cobbled streets that make for countless alleyways. We have invariably turned to the peace, the quiet and the warmth of the countryside whenever we have felt the need to unwind or to get the calm in our systems restored.

It was during one of those erratic work weeks that the Husband and I chanced upon, on the internet, this tiny village somewhere on the hills in the lush Italian countryside; Montelparo. Nestled between the sprawling Apennine Mountains and the calm Adriatic Sea that reminds you of a sheet of cornflowers in full bloom, in the eastern Italian region of Le Marche, Montelparo deserves a lot more literature dedicated to her beauty and serenity than what exists currently. Here we got our share of the countryside with a side of the old, rustic, old town feel. It is not without reason that the insiders refer to Le Marche as “Italy’s best kept secret.”

A quick survey on the internet told us that the fastest way to get to this quaint village on the hills is by car, and voila! We flew to Rome and then rented a Fiat Panda, all set to discover parts of lo stivale which seemed to be unheard of even by the locals. So, with our small suitcases stowed away in the boot, a full petrol tank, route downloaded on Google maps, sunglasses and a bottle of water, we set out on our own mini adventure as early as 7 in the morn. The drive was not supposed to take us any more than three hours as per Google maps. And lo and behold, the drive was one right out of the movies; where the lead characters drive their supercars through the highways lined with the lush green grass, with the towering mountains in the background set against the azure skies with clouds that remind us of cotton candy from the carnivals. The sole difference in our case was that, we did not look anything like the said lead characters; sporting our just-out-of-bed looks, in oversized tees, sneakers and worn out pairs of shorts. So glamourous.. NOT!

The drive was easily the best we have done to date. It was my first time in Italy but no book or research on the internet had me prepared for the beauty that she is. There was this point during the drive that we realized that we were not even talking and instead we were both just gazing endlessly out of the windows as though out of the sheer desperation to hold on to every moment that was flashing by, right in front of our eyes. Talk about living in the moment. There was a stretch of the highway that ran adjacent to the coastline to the Adriatic Sea; the water so blue that it almost made us feel like we were cast in an animated Disney flick. We stopped at one of the quiet coves at Pedaso, for a short break in the sun before we started to ascend the hills to get to Montelparo. We sat by the cove with our feet in the blue water, while the warm sun shone on our bare backs. With our batteries charged, we were ready to get back on the winding road to the village we had been reading about.

We drove by vast fields of golden sunflowers (remember Sting and his gruff voice, although he was referring to fields of barley, what a pity) smiling away at us as we whizzed past, through the narrow hill roads, by the white wooden board with ‘Montelparo’ painted on it in black. We had arrived.

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A tiny village on the hills, with houses, the lone church and bungalows, all built in an identical stone that was a light brown in colour; dark cobbled streets running past all these dainty structures; a piazza to serve as a parking area for the entire village (just to shed more light on how tiny the village is); and the utterly breathtaking view. The whole village is so high up that you can see the vast expanse of the countryside laying in front of you for as far as your eye can reach; the green of the surrounding hills, the sunlight bouncing off the valleys, the stone chapel in the distance, the trees; all set against the canvas lent by the blue skies.

We had already made reservations in a cozy looking hotel going by the pictures and the reviews on the internet; Boutique Hotel Leone. Run by the sweetest British couple Madeline and Tim, our experience at Leone was not a step behind perfect, right from the moment we set foot in that cool, airy, stone structure that houses the hotel that fits the picturesque background like a well-fitting glove. The holiday hangover that I am currently experiencing, even after a good one week after the Italian sojourn does not let me keep for later the fact that the whole show behind this luxury hotel is put up by none other than these two adorable individuals. A luxury hotel, with just 8 rooms, the amount of research that must have gone into each of the factors that makes this charming little place an experience in itself, seems unfathomable.

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Madeline who was once an accountant is the one who seemingly runs most of the front desk and administrative work, while Tim is the head chef. Just as we entered we were welcomed by the two of them personally, with the warmth one would expect only from family or long lost friends. After a brief chit chat, Madeline showed us to our room and holy moly! Considering the perfection with which Hotel Leone operates, I cannot help but talk about each of the factors that made the experience arguably the best we have had in a long, long time. So here goes.

  • Décor: Boutique Hotel Leone spelt out two words for me right at the first instance; warm and tasteful. Normally, these are not two adjectives I would expect to go side by side in a hotel environment. But Leone had it all. The furniture, the rooms, the setting the cute little bar, the terrace overlooking the spectacular view, the restaurant, the indoor part of which gives you vibes from no less than an old Scottish castle with the white washed, stone walls and the beautiful dim lighting, spelt out ‘class’. Another aspect that quite caught my fancy was the common living area for the residents, painted in a beautiful hue of fresh green, furnished with a few comfortable armchairs and sofas and adorned with those classic lampshades; the bookshelves loaded with all sorts of books (cookbooks in particular) reminded me of a scene from a long forgotten storybook.

 

  • Rooms: Even if we choose to ignore the view out of the windows (as difficult as that might be), the rooms in this hotel are worth every penny you spend. It was almost like every single aspect in the rooms were taken with utmost seriousness right at the toddler stages of the hotel; be it the huge comfy beds, the classy furnishings, the spacious bathrooms or even the mini bar for that matter. I must mention the cute complimentary basket that greeted us in the room filled with fresh fruit and some homemade cookies.

 

  • Services: Out of the umpteen hotels we have stayed at, individually and together, Leone is the first place where the rooms were cleaned and the beds made, twice a day; once in the morning and once when you are out for dinner. I mean, how amazing is that! By the time you get back from dinner, your beds will be made, with a little chocolate left for you on the pillow, all ready for you to just snuggle in between the sheets for a good night’s rest.
  • Food & Drink: As I had mentioned, Tim is the head chef in this hotel and he’s a star (for want of a more apt term.) By now, if you have been following my blog for a bit, you must know as to how seriously I take my food. So, take it from me, the food Tim whips up is phenomenal. The Truffle Ravioli that made for our first meal there was just something surreal. The fresh mussles in a white wine, garlic and parsley broth, the Pumpkin Ravioli and the seafood risotto need to be given honourable mentions. As regards drinks, Madeline is a genuine case of wine connoisseur-ness (again might need to apply for an artistic license) and the most helpful of them all. The husband and I love our wine, but do not consider ourselves connoisseurs and for this reason, we kept describing to the lovely Madeline what we were looking for in terms of taste or flavour and the bottles she picked were always absolutely on point.
  • Amenities: Keeping aside the fact that Hotel Leone is situated on a gem of a property, the amenities provided leave no box unchecked. Be it the lavish outdoor pool by the trees, the terrace where you can spend hours gawking at the hills and the valleys in front of you while Madeline treats you to the finest local wine, the restaurant with a stunning outdoor area for the days when the sun is out as well as the cozy indoor area or the bar, Hotel Leone has it all.

 

I realise I can go on forever about this stellar experience that we got to experience out of sheer luck. We were unable to put our finger on even one minute flaw in the whole experience, and that I feel is the result of all the hard work these two lovely individuals have devoted into this project. They had just three staff members whilst we were there. Two lovely interns, who were so on top of their game, making sure every guest is comfortable, warm and friendly at the same time never overstepping the mark even the slightest bit and an efficient and (again) warm, housekeeper. I could not help but notice how even the music played in the restaurant was so on point. That is the attention to detail you can see for yourselves in this little gem.

In case I have left you wondering if all there is to experience in Montelparo is the silence and the beauty of nature, please keep in mind that there are a gazillion old towns in the area accessible by car which are absolutely worth a visit. Also, the beaches are not far at all. Trust Madeline to help you out with all that you will need including maps, directions, recommendations and what not to make your day trips as perfect as your stay.

If ever you do plan to make a visit to the lower part of Italy, and you are looking to spend a bit of time with your loved ones away from the city madness, under the blue skies, sipping on some good wine, head straight to Leone and let Madeline and Tim do what they do best. I promise, you will not be disappointed. 🙂